The Meaning of Absolute in Perfumery

In perfumery, an “absolute” refers to a highly concentrated and aromatic oil derived from natural plant materials, such as flowers, leaves, resins, or other aromatic parts of plants. It is one of the most potent forms of fragrance ingredients used by perfumers to create complex and rich scents.

The process of obtaining an absolute involves the extraction of aromatic compounds from the plant material using a solvent. The initial step is the production of a semi-solid, waxy substance called “concrete” through solvent extraction. The concrete contains essential oils, waxes, pigments, and other lipophilic (fat-soluble) components from the plant.

To isolate the essential oils and other aromatic compounds from the concrete, it undergoes a further purification process known as “alcohol washing” or “enfleurage.” In this step, the concrete is mixed with alcohol, which selectively dissolves the essential oils and other aromatic molecules, leaving behind the waxes and other non-aromatic components.

The alcohol solution is then carefully separated from the remaining non-aromatic materials. The next step involves the removal of the alcohol from the solution through a process called “vacuum distillation” or “fractionation.” This results in the final product known as the “absolute.”

Absolutes are highly concentrated and prized in perfumery for several reasons:

1. Aromatic Richness: Absolutes capture the true essence and aroma profile of the natural plant material they are derived from. They contain a wide range of aromatic compounds, resulting in a complex and authentic fragrance.
2. High Potency: Absolutes are extremely concentrated, meaning that a small amount can go a long way in perfumery formulations. Their intensity allows perfumers to use them sparingly and achieve powerful scent notes.
3. Natural Origin: Absolutes are derived from natural botanical sources, making them highly desirable for brands and consumers seeking natural and authentic fragrance options.
4. Stability: Due to their high concentration, absolutes are relatively stable and have a longer shelf life compared to other fragrance ingredients.
5. Versatility: Absolutes can be used in various fragrance applications, including perfumes, colognes, body lotions, candles, and more, due to their versatility and compatibility with different ingredients.

It is worth noting that the extraction of absolutes involves the use of solvents, and while the alcohol washing process reduces the solvent content significantly, traces of the solvent may still be present in the final absolute. For this reason, some perfumers and consumers may prefer essential oils or other natural fragrance extraction methods that do not involve solvents.

Overall, absolutes play a vital role in perfumery, allowing perfumers to create captivating and authentic fragrances that evoke the beauty and complexity of nature’s aromatic offerings.