Pasteur enjoyed the odd flute of champagne in his time but I doubt whether he would have thought that this particular fermentation could generate so much more interest than just yeast. In fact, bubbles seem to be the most intriguing scientific topic where champagne is discussed. What we shouldn’t forget is just how fine the different flavours are in a product which has class and sophistication fermented into it.
Most champagne worth its straw coloured hue is produced around Epernay, a small town located in the heart of North-Eastern France.
In Champagne, all 318 villages are quality rated in the Echelle des Crus system which literally means ‘ladder of growths’ and are given a classification rating between 100 and 80% (the lowest rating). Some 257 of these are assessed generally between 80 and 89. On the next tier appear the 44 premiers crus, which range in their classification from 90 to 99. Top of the pyramid are the 17 grand cru villages, all rated 100% on the Echelle des Crus.
Storage
Champagne is best stored between 10 and 12°C in a dark environment.
Most have an alcohol content of about 12% Vol.
The Houses
Of the great champagne houses, none is more famous that Moët & Chandon which began in 1743 which regularly produces fantastic flavours. One of the most interesting is the ‘Imperial Brut’ which has a fresh, crisp palate hinting at severe fruitiness, especially white-fleshed fruits of peach, apple and pear, lemon, some floral notes including lime blossom and elegant hints of brioche and fresh nuts. There are three main champagne grape varieties in this bottle: 30% to 40% Pinot Noir, 30% to 40% Pinot Meunier, 20% to 30% Chardonnay. The impact is of a seductive palate brought about by bright fruitiness and elegant maturity. This continually seduces and delights the taste buds.
Taittinger is a famous brand which offers a brut reserve. This particular offering has a brilliant golden colour with bubbles which are fine and producing a mousse like quality that is discreet and persistent. The palate provides a fruity and bready note. Taittinger believe this is the perfect accompaniment to white meat, lamb with chanterelles, crayfish and mushroom quiche.
We often come across Bollinger Special Cuvee Champagne NV which they describe as “A powerful yet elegant, bone dry champagne with a high proportion of Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier giving a wonderfully biscuity nose, and flavours of citrus, nuts, figs and spice.” It is also stated to be complex, muscular yet graceful with fine length and lovely maturity. Bollinger recommend this as an aperitif, with white fish and seafood.
Verve-Cliquot was founded in 1772 by Philippe Clicquot, the house was later taken over by his widow Madame Clicquot at the age of 27 in 1810. Through determination, intuition and acumen Madame Clicquot not only created the first recorded vintage in the champagne region but built up the Veuve Clicquot property to make it one of the foremost vineyards in all of Champagne. Have you tried Veuve Clicquot’s Champagne Yellow Label ? It offers a champagne which is “a fine balance between fruity aromas and more subtle toasty notes. Initial flavours of white fruits and raisins develop into notes of brioche and vanilla with bottle aging.” It is composed of the grapes, 50 to 55% Pinot Noir, 15 to 20% Pinot Meunier, and 28 to 33% Chardonnay with a mix of about 60 different crus.
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