Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) is probably regarded by many in northern climates as a bit of an exotic. In truth this native of Africa is not likely to be a crop that survives a frost and it doesn’t like cold conditions that much either. So growing okra might seem a challenge but if you get the weather conditions on your side then there isn’t that much of an issue.
The plant is related to hibiscus and made its way from Africa to North America where it is cultivated in the southern states. The edible green pods became especially popular in the Deep South where it is a side dish of vegetables and a thickener for stews like the classic gumbo.
The plant has particular nutritional benefits but the mucilage is a good thickener.
Okra prefers growth conditions to sweetcorn (maize).
It is also an ornamental with large showy flowers that can reach upto 6 feet although 2 feet is more common. The variety called Burgundy is a good annual plant for the herbaceous border.
Soil Preparation For Growing Okra
In the United Kingdom choose a sunny site. It will grow really well in good humus rich soil with plenty of added manure and compost. We think it can be treated like maize so the soil needs to be similar. It helps to have grown legumes like peas and beans in the same ground beforehand because a nitrogen-fixing crop really helps with this plant.
Growing Okra Seeds
Start off seeds in the greenhouse by sowing seed into cell modules. Use a good multi-purpose compost. Sow two seeds per cell and cover completely. Discard the weaker seedling.
Germination is better if the seed is nicked with a file but we have also had some success with an overnight soaking.
The first sowing is in early March and second sowing is in late May or early June so that the whole season is covered.
It takes six weeks for plants to be ready for putting outdoors. We reckon they should be outside about 2 weeks after the last frost.
If you sow directly outdoors, only do this when the soil has warmed up and the air temperature is above 10ºC on a regular basis. They wont move very far if the temperature is cold and the weather too overcast.
For outdoor sowing too, sow those seeds about 1 cm (½in) deep when the soil is light and fine. If its heavier soil and more loamy, go for 1 inch deep. Space the seeds 3 inches apart and in rows about 3 feet apart.
Transplant seedlings to between 18 inches and 2 feet. Take only the strongest plants as weak plants will not crop effectively anyway.
Growing Okra On
Let the transplanted seedlings grow to 10cm (4 in.) tall before giving the area around them a good mulch with compost. This keeps moisture in and suppresses weeds. Keep hoeing to remove weeds as well but be careful not to damage young plants. Maintain watering during dry weather.
A dressing with multi-purpose fertiliser and compost or even rotted manure helps to feed the soil around the roots.
The early grown plants can also get a Chelsea chop which encourages further increased growth. In long hot summers, do the chop at the end of July to encourage a second growth and another crop.
Harvesting
The pods should be ready after 50 days. These are picked when the stems are still wiry and tough. You need a sharp knife to take them off so be careful! Choose edible pods when they are literally the size of a finger and those stems are still young and supple enough to be cut.
Keep picking throughout the season to encourage more flowers and produce fruit. Remove old pods as their is a point when the plant stops producing. Frost usually takes the plant in the end otherwise you can go through the season just picking.
One issue! Wear gloves because the pods have prickles in the calyx which is disconcerting. The pods too can have slight prickles which produce an allergic reaction in some. There are spineless varieties so look out for them if they are available.
Pests And Diseases
Flea beetles and aphids are the biggest issue in the summer months. Encourage other insect predators to pick them off otherwise its hand picking an crushing.
Fusarium wilt is a problem in hotter climates and there may be verticillium wilt which is associated with other hibiscus plants. It is noticeable when the leaves turn yellow and wilt. Unfortunately the plant has to be dug up and destroyed. No composting for this one as the fungus just persists.