Grapes have been grown in Northern Europe for millennia but the Romans really spread it to places like Britain. They are extremely hardy plants and only require a small space for growth. They are usually planted along a south facing wall in colder climates, fence or trained over an arch or pergola. They are extremely decorative plants as well being productive, specially with the appearance of cold hardy varieties. Indeed, it’s possible to plant the vines in most areas where the fruit is used for wine making or eating fresh.
Vines are planted about 1.2 to 1.5 metres (4-5 ft.) apart. Use a Gripple system to support vines if that is the method to be used.
How To Prune Grapevines And Grapes
Pruning The Grapevine
Vines are notorious for their vigour and can be difficult to manage if you let them get the upper hand. You can of course just let your grape vine ramble all over the place. Fruit quantity and quality will be vastly improved if you prune and train your vine. One of the issues with vigour is their capacity to produce lots of bunches of small grapes. Pruning helps keep not only the vine in check but means that energy can be put into fruiting through the summer.
You need to be ruthless with pruning ! Cut back all the sideshoots coming from the main rods (branches) to one or two leaves beyond the flowers. Tie these into the supports. This is a general approach for all vines whether they are dessert or wine varieties.
Pruning Dessert And Wine Grapes !
Wine and dessert grapes are treated differently when it comes to pruning the fruit. Wine grapes are allowed to carry more bunches of fruit than the dessert varieties. In fact, dessert grapes are only allowed to produce one bunch per sideshoot.
Thin out the number of bunches your vine carries, selecting the best. Choose one very 3ft (1m) of stem for dessert, and one every 20in (50cm) for wine.
The bunches appear on sideshoots off the main stems. Cut two leaves past each bunch of grapes, so that the sideshoots are shortened. This helps to both boost fruit set and maximise individual grape size.
Cut back non-fruiting sideshoots and any others that arise as the summer progresses. As a rule of thumb, if the vine is not being used for shading, cut back to five leaves from the source. Sideshoots subsequently produced from those are snipped back to one leaf. At the same time it is reasonable to train in any suitably spaced main shoots as new rods if you so wish. If not, cut these back to one leaf also.
When it comes to the grapes themselves, bunches of dessert grapes are often best thinned in stages. Start when the berries are large enough to handle easily. Aim to remove one grape in three to improve the quality of any remaining berries. Wine berries have no requirements for such thinning.
The leaves often provide useful shade in the greenhouse. Cut back as hard or as gently as you wish so that the vine remains within bounds.
Grapes For The UK
Some of the main cultivars for growing in the UK.
Black Hamburgh – a fine dessert variety which can be seen in all its glory as the Great Vine at Hampton Court Palace. This one is the oldest vine in existence in the UK certainly. The large berries are dark red to purple. Very juicy and sweet. Can be grown in an unheated greenhouse but likes heat in cold climates. All fruit ripens in September onwards. Pomona Fruits are a good supplier of this variety.
Phoenix – a modern white dessert and wine grape. produces a large yellow berries with a fine muscat flavour. Shows excellent mildew resistance which is always an issue during we summer seasons. An excellent choice for organic growers. ideal too for outdoor growing. Fruit ripens in early October.
Vanessa – a red seedless variety bred in Canada. Given the country it is one of the hardiest we can find. The fruit quality is comparable to the older variety called Flame. Grapes are firm, medium in size with a mild, fruity flavour. Will ripen in a cold greenhouse. All fruit ripens in October.
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